Alex PulaskiBrandenburg Gate, Berlin
The biggest question for me in visiting Europe, after figuring out where to go, has always been what to pack.
Not in the sense of clothing and shoes, mind you. Shorts and T-shirts rule the day (unless you’re going to Italy, where they frown on T-shirts at many religious sites).
No, I mean what guidebooks to stuff in your backpack. There’s no point in going if you don’t know what you’re seeing and its layers of history, and I’ve been known to lug pounds of paper over the Thames, up the Alps and into the Vatican.
But that was before smartphones and tablets came along. Suddenly, hundreds of guidebooks and apps are at our fingertips in the same compact package.
So for my most recent excursion, an exploration of Central Europe (Berlin, Prague, Vienna, Salzburg and Munich) I left behind the paper and loaded up on 21st century guide tools.
Like picking out a guidebook, it takes some time and thought to settle on the right apps for your destination. I ended up buying cityscouter’s offline guide apps ($3.99 each) for Berlin, Prague, Vienna and Munich.
As a basis of comparison, I also arranged for the low-tech guide option: the personal touch, via guided walks (group and private) in several of the cities. I wanted to measure those real-life guides against the advantages and limitations of high-tech tools.
My techno-guide of choice would be the iPad, kind of oversized for the job, but my choice for three reasons: I didn’t own an iPhone (then), I didn’t want to try to puzzle out maps and text on a 2×3-inch screen, and I had read too many horror stories of consumers being hit with bills into the thousands of dollars because their iPhones racked up roaming and data charges overseas.
We did, as it turned out, pack an iPhone, as much for emergencies as to experiment with an innovative real-time mobile guide in one of our target cities, Salzburg. More on that later.
What I discovered, mostly, is that apps definitely have their limits. Many of those I sampled were poorly written, and weak on discerning the best places to sample the schnitzel or rest your head. But the mapping functions — particularly in big cities –save time, and the apps are pretty good about giving basic info and background. In effect, they were short on enlightenment and entertainment, but decent at informing.
And, of course, they’re easier on your back.
Alex Pulaski/The Oregonian
Berlin
Getting there/around: We used Eurail Passes (eurail.com), the most convenient, pleasant and cost-effective means of traveling between European capitals. Costs vary, depending on type and length of travel, but one thing is constant: ease of use. On most trains there’s no need for reservations or standing in line. You just grab a seat and wait for the conductor to come around. Plan right and most destinations in Central Europe are just a few hours apart. A tech note: I downloaded an app (Train Schedules Europe, $3.99) on train timetables thinking we’d be on the cutting edge. But the reality we discovered is that the printed timetable guide that comes with your Eurail Pass is easier to understand and isn’t bulky. Once in Berlin, the efficient underground system is your best bet; wear comfortable walking shoes — it’s a big, big city. Watch out for cyclists — they are intent on getting somewhere, and impatient with pedestrians in their path.
What to see: Begin your stay in Berlin (as Napoleon did in 1806) by passing through the massive Brandenburg Gate.
“You enter Berlin as a temple,” private tour guide Markus Muller-Tenckhoff told us. “People come to Berlin for a new chance, new possibilities.”
Though there remain ample opportunities for gazing backward — remnants of the Berlin Wall, the tourist-choked border crossing of Checkpoint Charlie, the moving Memorial to Murdered Jews — the pace of Berlin’s changes is so dizzying that you feel the need to jog to keep up. So spend a day or two soaking in the history, strolling through Unter den Linden or taking in the magnificent gates at the Pergamon Museum.
But don’t miss the dynamism of present-day Berlin, with its cutting edge architecture (Potsdamer Platz), pleasant strolling districts (Scheunenviertel) or endless shopping (KaDeWe — for the food court alone — or along Friedrichstrasse, to name just two).
Guide preferences: We found that a personal guide, in the form of Markus Muller-Tenckhoff (guidesinberlin.de/markus/english.htm), was invaluable for a few hours of history. The cityscouter app did some of its best work here as well. Because Berlin is so huge, getting around is a big deal. The app’s map function allows you to overlay subway maps with street maps, vastly simplifying the question of which underground line to take. The Berlin Essential Guide (Sutro Media, $2.99) offers better practical advice than cityscouter, and many more photos. But its maps are less useful.
Where to stay: A word on finding hotels: The apps I bought were not strong on credible recommendations for either eating or hotels. Plenty of hotels were listed, but it was impossible to figure out which ones were better than others. I suggest using Trip Advisor (tripadvisor.com) before you go, and look for a place with some character. The Savoy Hotel Berlin used to be frequented by Greta Garbo, which ought to be good enough for anyone. Opened in 1929, it has the modern touches of flat-screen TVs in the rooms and a pleasantly renovated lobby and restaurant. It’s centrally located in West Berlin, a short walk from the underground. If cigars are your thing, you’ll want to linger at the Casa de Habano in the Times Bar.
Prague
Getting around: Most sights are within walking distance. There is a subway system, but the convenient trams let you soak in the city better.
What to see: From Old Town Square, where it all begins, you walk and walk and walk, sampling street fare (cheese wheels as big as motorcycle tires). Admire a new building on every corner. Take in a concert (we saw mezzosoprano Yvona Skvarova singing Handel, Vivaldi, Mozart and more in an intimate setting inside picturesque St. Nicholas Church.) Board tram 22 to Prague Castle, where you can spend most of a day gawking.
Guide preferences: Here is where I began getting a better handle on the cityscouter app’s advantages and limitations. I loved a function that allows you to build your own “want to visit” list, but the scant few sentences on each sight left me hungry for better info. For iPhone, the Prague — Michelin Travel Guide ($5.99) is intuitive and offers some limited dining and hotel suggestions, but the map function is poor. Just out in late November (too late for our trip, a pity), Prague: DK Eyewitness (Dorling Kindersley, $6.99) for iPad offers the spectacular photos, graphics and background info that have characterized the DK guides in print.
Where to stay: The Grand Hotel Bohemia (grandhotelbohemia.cz) is superbly located, just a few steps from Old Town Square. The elegant hotel was built in the 1920s, so it retains an Old World feel while being completely modern (renovated in 2008), from stylish furnishings to the in-room music system. Ask to take a peek at the ornate ballroom, and soak in the amazing city view from the rooftop terrace. Buffet breakfast is included.
Alex Pulaski/The OregonianFlowers at a market stall in Vienna.
Vienna
Getting around: Convenient subway and tram system, but plan on some longer walks.
What to see: The Kunsthistorisches Museum is packed with portraits by Raphael, Rubens, Michelangelo and more. The striking building interior of marble and gold leaf alone is worth a visit. You could spend a day wandering around Schonbrunn Palace and its grounds, and there are concert opportunities practically everywhere nightly.
Stroll past the lovely cafes, food shops and flower stands of the Naschmarkt over the Wien River, and dawdle along the shopping street of Neubaugasse (next to a honey shop I saw a hobby shop with an Oregon Lumber Co. train in the window).
Mostly, at every opportunity, stop for a slice of heavenly pastry at one of Vienna’s omnipresent cafes. Some of our favorites (the research was extensive): Cafe Diglas, Cafe Central and Cafe Sperl.
Guide preferences: Personal guide Niki Koenig (email: niki_koenig72@yahoo.de) was indispensable, as remarkable for his good humor and patience as his encyclopedic mind. The cityscouter app performed the same as its counterparts for Berlin and Vienna. Vienna Map Offline (FidesReef, $2.99) was frustrating, and basically unnecessary because the cityscouter app has adequate mapping. A number of instant-translation apps have cropped up over the past year, at least two of them in German for iPad, but English was easily understood everywhere we went in Central Europe. A recent myTaxi app (Intelligent Apps, free) looks useful, promising to get a taxi to you in Germany or Austria with one click.
Where to stay: The Hotel Altstadt (hotel-altstadt-vienna.com) all but oozes charm, and is just a short walk or bus ride away from the tourist magnet of the Inner Ring. The place kind of feels like a comfortable apartment building; tasteful nudes and other art decorate the walls. A satisfying buffet breakfast — on linen and china — is included, and the service (Elizabeth, at the front desk, only giggled when we tried to offer her a tip) is incredibly friendly. Free Wi-Fi. The nearby Das Mobel Cafe is well worth a stop for lunch or dinner.
Alex Pulaski/The OregonianWater garden outside Salzburg.
Salzburg
Getting around: Rent a bike or borrow one (see below) from your hotel, and pedal along the scenic Salzach River. You’ll need to park it and walk through scenic Old Town.
What to see: When you just can’t stand sampling another chocolate or strolling past one more shop window filled with gorgeous clothing in picturesque Old Town, grab a taxi and head to Hellbrunn Palace and its trick water features.
Watch out when one of the guides starts rattling his keys, however, because you are going to end up soaked, and laughing.
“I had no choice. I had to do it,” said guide Georg Schneider after the third or fourth time one of our group was hit by spray from an archway, the pavement or even a seat.
Of course, because this is Mozart’s birthplace, you’ll want to take in a concert. We enjoyed the Mozart Dinner Concert (tinyurl.com/mozartdinner) — basically Mozart’s greatest hits, set in an elegant Baroque dining hall by candlelight.
Guide preferences: We experimented with — and ended up being frustrated by — the city’s real-time mobile guide powered by Wikitude (tinyurl.com/salzburgwiki), just based on functionality. The concept is that your smartphone, with its GPS function, becomes your complete guide — hold it up in front of a sight and it feeds you information about it. I struggled to make it work, and between the added cost (my carrier, AT&T, charges an arm and leg for overseas data plans) and the compact, lovely nature of Salzburg, we decided to power the phone off, wander around and enjoy getting lost. As a backup, I ended up downloading a guidebook, Rick Steves Snapshot Munich, Bavaria & Salzburg (Amazon, $6.29), which has all the historical background and user-friendly information that are hallmarks of Steves’ work.
Where to stay: The family-owned Hotel Auersperg (www.auersperg.at) is on a quiet street near the heart of Salzburg. It is ranked No. 4 among Salzburg hotels on tripadvisor.com, and for good reason. Built in 1900, it is exceptionally well cared-for, unprepossessing on the exterior but warm, cozy and modern inside, with extras such as radiant heated bathroom floors. Borrow a complimentary hotel bicycle and explore the city. Very attentive service. Buffet breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi. Be sure to grab a sausage and beer at Die Weisse brewery, just around the corner.
Munich
Getting around: The underground has trains running most routes every five minutes; cabs are plentiful, and if you stay close to the city center your feet can take you most places.
What to see: Beer garden, beer garden, a long stroll past the stalls of the Viktualienmarkt, then another beer garden. Repeat. Ask yourself: How can one petite server carry seven full steins of lager? Must be in the wrists.
Leave a half-day for a sobering exploration (see below) of nearby Dachau Concentration Camp. Though never designed for mass extinction, it had its own crematorium, and standing inside the gas chamber is both sickening and thought-provoking.
Guide preferences: I created a short “want to see list” on cityscouter, and when I needed better information cracked open the Rick Steves guide on the iPad. Our favorite excursion, through Munich Walk Tours (munichwalktours.de), was a group tour of Dachau.
Where to stay: Hotel Exquisit (hotel-exquisit.com) is well-located, a brisk walk from the city center. Rooms are large, comfortable and quaintly decorated, but this hotel is more about value and location than luxury. Some modern touches such as flat-screen TVs. Helpful staff. Breakfast buffet included. It was ranked 10th among 390 Munich hotels on a recent check on tripadvisor.com.
– Alex Pulaski